First Two Weeks in Kolkata

What have I done in the first two weeks in Kolkata? Browsed the largest used book market in Asia, visited the India coffee house, gossiped with shopkeepers, explored the old European cemetery, studied Bengali, and made friends with a Brahman while giving a puja at Kalighat temple.

I can tell that this language program is going to be excellent. It’s very small, with only four students, so we each get individual attention. Besides me, there is one other student (Bennett, who has been in my class in Dhaka for the last two summers) who is studying for a year; the other two are one semester students.

I’m starting to know my way around now. On Thursday and Sunday the first week I was here, I did some comparison shopping to get a feel for prices. It’s a bit disorienting to know what the price for something should be in taka, but not in rupees – especially when rupees are called taka in Bengali (it’s the word for money). Luckily, in my neighborhood there is a variety of stores from sidewalk bazaar stands to high-end boutiques. I have yet to buy any clothes here, but I have a better idea of what the prices should be. Also, I discovered that most stores are closed on Sundays.

On Wednesday, I wanted to go shopping and see more places in my neighborhood. One of the other students, who has lived here for 10 years, showed me around. We first stopped by Gariahat market, an indoor bazaar that is very near to the institute. It has a very large selection of produce, fish, and meat. From there, I walked south, passing a branch of the Ramakrishna Mission on the way, and went to Dokkinapur, a shopping complex specializing in handicrafts from all over India. Most of the Indian states’ governments have shops there to sell their products. Although I wasn’t ready to buy anything, I still had some good conversations with shopkeepers. In one store, there was a group of workers who were about my age with whom I was able to have a good conversation. To get back to my house, I walked through this large park surrounding a lake that is just south of where I live. It is a really gorgeous location.

Speaking of gorgeous locations, on Friday we took a short class trip to visit Park Street Cemetery, the old imperialist British cemetery. It is filled with gigantic, moss-covered stone monuments and ancient trees. It reminded me of pictures that I have seen of Ankor Wat.  

Saturday morning I walked to the Kalighat temple. There, I was pulled into the tourist racket to some extent – given a basket with offerings and sent inside with a Brahmin guide to give a puja. They were surprised when I didn’t have any money on me (I honestly had just come to look around outside, and only had 50 rupees with me), but didn’t press me too much on the matter. I enjoyed talking to my guide, who was happy that I could speak Bengali and offered to take me on a tour of the other major temples in the city if I wanted. The inside of the temple was crowded; I had the misfortune of randomly wandering into that area on a special feast day. My guide took me around the back way, where I could give my offerings and see the image but not have to stand in line for hours. After the main puja, he took me to another shrine on the side, where women could give offerings to pray for a good marriage, children, etc. After coming out of the temple, I retrieved my shoes and walked around the block. Immediately next to the temple is Mother Teresa’s Hospital for the Dying, a big white building that has a crucifix affixed to the roof. In some of the stalls selling devotional materials in front of the temple, there was a mix of Hindu and Catholic religious icons.

Walking back toward my house, I found a Greek Orthodox church (I think it is the nearest church to where I live), and then walked south through Lake Market. Lake Market is both sides of a road where flower and produce sellers spread out their wares. It goes on for a little more than a block, and has a large selection.